Network Cabling Nightmare – Fiber Optic Damage

The phone rang at 7pm on a Monday. We need to mobilize now! Three floors of the hospital’s network were down. I didn’t know at the time but a 12 strand pre-existing single mode fiber optic cable had been destroyed by the h07rn f cable pulling crew. This team had been installing a new 12 strand armored fiber. One of the guys in the middle of the run didn’t have a ladder. The guy appeared to be tugging the armored cable from the floor. There was a bundle of about 20 armored fiber cables coming from a hole in the wall above the ceiling. The new fiber being pulled turned out to be resting over the bigger bundle of fiber. As he was tugging from his location on the floor he was pulling the new cable down on the active bundle. He was in fact burning up the outer coats on the existing cables. All of the cables could possibly have made it except for the one in the center of the bundle that was not armored. The new armored cable burnt through it very easily.

This situation disrupted 3 floors of one area within a NYC Hospital. We were summoned for emergency mending. We were able to patch it up quickly that night. A couple of days afterwards we conducted a permanent solution. When we started troubleshooting we had no idea where the issue was. We just knew there was a group installing twin and earth cable in the data center the night before. We shot a laser beam light over the fiber from one of the fiber heads within the data center. Once we looked around we saw some light inside the ceiling. As we checked nearer the opening through the wall where the larger bunch of fiber had been coming through was basically illuminated red like a X-mas tree. We had singled out the problem to this place. We were able to pull back a certain amount of slack and when we pulled it out from the wall the laser was beaming out from the cut fiber!

The moral from this experience is use suitable equipment in addition to common sense please! Basic laws of physics will confirm, you should not tug down on a cable that’s rubbing against another cable or maybe a bunch of cables for an extended time period with out catastrophe. This was expensive to fix and created an embarrassing situation for the contractor. Think before you pull!

For both electrical and fiber optic cables, tools are needed to strip the insulation jacket from the 2/0 welding cable. This tool is called a cable slitter. For armored fiber optic cable, a more specialized tool called armored cable slitter is designed for the same purpose.

If you’ve ever tried to slit electrical or fiber optic cable very far without ruining the inner wires and fibers, you know how hard it can be. This little tool does a amazingly good job in two seconds. The same process can take you up to 5~10 minutes if you are using a standard knife or wire cutter.

A cable slitter that slits cable insulation without nicking the wires or fibers is a useful tool for new work or adding extra outlets.

Using a cable slitter avoids the chance of cutting through the insulation of the underlying individual conductors or fibers. This tool allows you to safely slit, split and remove insulation up to 4.8mm thick from many kinds of single or multiple conductor cable.

The rotating blade allows you to slit your welding cable price list in both a longitudinal as well as orbital configuration. It can slit jacket material of PVC, Teflon and THHN.

In the tool, a precision swivel blade lets you make a full 360° slit around the cable. If you want to slit the cable lengthwise, just rotate the slide lever to swivel the blade 90°.

The slitter’s blade is replaceable, you can just slide roll pin in the handle to one side to remove the spare.

But even among electricians who strip cable for a living, this tool is surprisingly lesser-known.

Explore Through The World Of Bulk Speaker Wire And Other Coaxial Cables

The technology of cabling has increased by leaps and bounds and today, you will find several innovative bulk and coaxial bulk Ethernet systems working in various professional set ups. It is the sheer result of innovation and development that the bulk and bulk coaxial house electrical wiring have began to take the lead and offering high quality audio, video and data transmissions within small, medium and large set ups. Bulk speaker wire is the result of innovation and it is used where the need for high quality audio output is desired. While selecting the Bulk speaker wire, it becomes quite necessary that you shop and compare the features as you will come across different models of these wires in the market.

Bulk Speaker Wire will play crucial role in carrying the bulk audio signals from the amplifiers directly to the speakers. The signals transferred are continuous and at high speeds and eventually the result is good quality audio without any noise or disturbance. The bulk speaker wire is used in the sound proof rooms and several audiophile products. Along with the wire, oxygen free and long crystal is also employed to add to the quality of out put.

Quick Points to Know on Shielded CAT5e Bulk Cable 1000 ft

Shielded CAT5e Bulk Cable 1000 ft is a 1000 ft electrical wire size which is integrated with the shielded twisted pair and also has the spinal spacer for minimizing the cross talk interference. The cable has more power and superiority over the Cat 5e as signals can be transferred quickly and smoothly. The specialty of Shielded CAT5e Bulk Cable 1000 ft finds its extensive use in the areas where serious protection is required from the outwards electrical interference. Therefore, you will find it to be ideal for use in the heavy machinery, generators, transformers, and electrical equipment showing electro magnetic interference.

Prominent Features of the RG59 Coaxial CCTV Cable

RG59 Coaxial CCTV Cable is a high density power cable manufacturers which is meant to transfer audio and video data at alarming rates and moreover, it also provides quality transfer of signals. It is the very coaxial nature of this cable which h is otherwise used for running the video to different security cameras. The coaxial cable is available in 500 and 1000 foot spools and you can choose from the black and white colors. The best thing to know about RG59 Coaxial CCTV Cable is that you can easily run the video and power in integrated manner. You don’t need to have a separate power cable to fix to the main electric supply. This special Ethernet can be easily cut to the desired length and integrates with twist-on, crimp-on, and compression BNC connectors.

Keep in your mind that when you are going to buy any of these cables, shop and compare. Once you shop and compare, you will be in a better position to make the right deals. Do not show any hurry while buying the wire of armored cable system or you may end up choosing the wrong option.

The author writes on various aspects related to the Shielded CAT5e Bulk Cable 1000 ft, RG59 Coaxial CCTV Cable, and many other Ethernet cables.

Reliable Cable Locating Services For Your Underground Cables

There is a wide network of cables going underneath the earth which includes gas, TV, telephone cables, etc. For locating your underground cables you have to select proper cable locating services that can facilitate you cost-effective and optimum services. Before choosing anything else you have to look out for the ideal utility locator. Nowadays a h05rn-f cable locator can be easily found at very affordable prices. With the help of these tools you can get efficient results.

After detecting the underground power cable, a colored flag or a painted spray has been sprinkled on that specific location. This is to ensure that digging up of this part of the area should be done carefully or better be avoided as it has a network of underground utilities running underneath it. While digging up if any of it gets damaged then it will be very harmful so always take the help of this device before stepping ahead.

Before going to tackle this kind of problem you should measure accurate underground cable location features. It is very important to do this because we have a plethora of underground flexible cable types such as power, telephone, gas cables, etc. and you have to detect the correct one out of these. So in order to avoid such problems you have to hire suitable utility locating services that has proper locator, underground scanning equipment, ground penetrating radar and much more. In almost all engineering companies, oil and gas companies and also in the energy and telecom sector these tools are widely used.

With the use of an appropriate cable locator you can free yourself from the hassle of destroying the other flexible control cables and it is less time-consuming also. These tools are also available online and in different shapes and sizes out of which you can make your own choice. As the technology is advancing day by day locator is also coming with the latest features that include depth reading facility and bright LCD display as well. Now save yourself from the long hours of digging and buy your underground locator as soon as possible.

Utility locating companies use their sophisticated electronic equipments and with the help of the training to interpret the signals they do their job very easily. By attaching a transmitter to the pipe, electromagnetic signals can be obtained and this would help greatly in detecting the underground cables. Thus, make sure that you select the best underground 2 gauge battery cable by the foot detection and utility location services that can help you in your development projects.

J.K.Hopes is the person with immense knowledge of cable locating services. He has written various articles related to cable locating that has proved beneficial for the professionals dealing in this sector.

How to Conceal Wall Mounted Flat Screen TV Wires and Cables During Installation

A Flat screen TV mounted on the wall is a pleasing sight. Along with better picture and sound quality a flat screen LCD or plasma TV also adds to the aesthetic ambiance of any room. However, h07rn f cables and wires dangling and lying around spoil the picture of perfection that a Flat screen TV provides.

What are the different options?

There are several ways by which you can conceal the power cables. A simple option is to hide the wires behind furniture like wall cabinets and curtains, while a more permanent option is to conceal the wires in the walls behind the flat screen TV wall mount. The latter option needs pre-existing power outlets especially if the walls are solid. In case of dry or wooden partition walls, a bit of drilling and cutting will enable you to hide twin and earth cables effectively while installing your flat screen TV wall mount.
Can I skip the drilling and cutting?

An increasingly popular option used today is to hide the wires in decorative moldings which look good while blending easily with the wall. This involves less of drilling and can be done quickly within an hour or so. The decorative moldings or raceways as they are also known can be painted to match the wall color.

What are the standard guidelines to be followed?

If you opt for concealing the wires in the wall there are a few things you would need to keep in mind. First of all it would be better not to run the wires through an exterior wall which involves difficulty in drilling due to extra bracing and insulation. You will also need to select heat and fire resistant HDMI Cables as per local standards.

Also do not run 2/0 welding cables through the walls, which is a violation of safety codes; only the TV AV cables can be passed through. You can also cut a hole in the wall and pass the TV cable to be connected to a power socket behind the wall at the other end.

How do I run the TV cables through the wall?

In most cases however the cables are connected to the DVD player, cable box and the like placed about 2-3 feet below the Flat screen TV. The devices are generally housed in a cabinet with the power socket located behind the cabinet panel. If there is no pre-existing socket you may have to get one installed.

You will need a knife, wall sockets, cables and of course nuts and bolts along with a turn screw. Use a marker to outline a square at the top behind the TV wall mounting bracket and another one just below it behind the welding cable price list box and DVD player cabinet. Then cut the outlined space using the knife or use a drill and run the TV cables downwards.

Connect them at both ends to the power sockets which you have affixed to the wall and you are good to go. The last part would be to connect all plugs in their socket, switch on the power and then sit back and relax watching your favorite show or movie.

Katie Browns writes for Nextday Techs, a TV Installation, LCD TV Wall mounting service based company providing expert technical solutions for homes and offices. For more information on how to get your Flat screen TV installed along with concealing the wires and cables.

Save Time & Money Doing Your Own Basic Electric Wiring

Hiring a professional electrician can be very expensive and is often the reason why people try doing their own basic electric wiring themselves.

I have seen the good, the bad and the ugly results of these efforts and I have come to the conclusion that basic welding cable is not something anyone should do without proper guidance, tools and confidence.

It is so important that before attempting any of these basic electrical wiring projects that people are aware of how dangerous electricity is and how important safety is for you and for your family and family home.

90 percent of the time I recommend hiring a licensed electrician over doing your basic electrical wiring yourself. Not doing this will usually end up costing even more money than before and increase the risk of bringing your family into danger without even knowing your doing it.

But doing your own basic battery cable really isn’t that hard to do if you “educate” yourself on the topic.

Licensed electricians had to learn the stuff themselves too. So as a ‘do it yourself person’ this isn’t different. There is no escape possible.

You will see that the more you read about it the easier it will become and the more confidence you will get.

Just to give you an idea, here are 3 questions I recently got from people just like you who tried doing their own electric wiring:

Question 1: I installed a grounding probe in your aquarium and every time anyone in the house turns on or off the lights, the fish jump. What’s going on?

A couple of suggestions:

1. (easiest) Pull out that grounding probe and return it from whence you purchased it.

2. Check the wiring on your outlet. You may actually have ‘Neutral’ instead of ‘Ground’.

3. Check the wiring throughout the rest of the house. There are some people out there that insist on doing their own home repairs, yet don’t understand basic solar cable.

Outlets are easy to check by getting a $7.95 outlet tester from the hardware store. Wired-in appliances, lights, heaters, etc. are tougher.

4. Check all your electrical fixtures to make sure they aren’t leaking some voltage to Ground.

Question 2: What is the NEC? Where can I get a copy?

The NEC is a model electrical code devised and published by the National Fire Protection Association, an insurance industry group. It’s revised every three years.

The 1993 version has been released. You can buy a copy at a decent bookstore, or by calling them directly at 800-344-3555.

The code exists in several versions. There’s the full text, which is fairly incomprehensible. There’s an abridged edition, which has only the sections likely to apply to most houses.

And there’s the NEC Handbook, which contains the “authorized commentary” on the code, as well as the full text. That’s the recommended version. Unfortunately, there’s no handbook for the abridged edition. And the full handbook is expensive — US$65 plus shipping and handling.

Question 3: Can I do my own wiring? Extra pointers?

In most places, homeowners are allowed to do their own wiring. In some, they’re not. Check with your local electrical inspector. Most places won’t permit you to do wiring on other’s homes for money without a license. Nor are you permitted to do electric wiring in “commercial” buildings.

Multiple dwellings (eg: duplexes)are usually considered “semi-commercial” or “commercial”. However, many jurisdictions will permit you to work on semi-commercial wiring if you’re supervised by a licensed electrician – if you can find one willing to supervise.

If you do your own wiring, an important point:

Do it NEAT and WELL! What you really want to aim for is a better job than an electrician will do. After all, it’s your own home, and it’s you or your family that might get killed if you make a mistake.

An electrician has time pressures, has the skills and knows the tricks of the trade to do a fast, safe job. In this FAQ we’ve consciously given a few recommendations that are in excess of code, because we feel that it’s reasonable, and will impress the inspector.

The inspector will know that you’re an amateur. You have to earn his trust. The best way of doing this is to spend your time doing as neat a job as possible. Don’t cut corners. Exceed specifications. Otherwise, the inspector may get extremely picky and fault you on the slightest transgressions.

Don’t try to hide anything from the inspector.

Use the proper tools. Ie: don’t use a bread knife to strip wires, or twist wires with your fingers. The inspector won’t like it, and the results won’t be that safe. And it takes longer. And you’re more likely to stick a hunk of 12ga wire through your hand that way.

Don’t handle house wire when it’s very cold (eg: below -10C or 16F). Thermoplastic house wire, particularly older types become very brittle.

As you can see, getting the right answers to your questions can make the work a lot easier.

You save time by doing it “the right way” from the first time and you save money because you won’t need to hire an electrician to either do the entire job or to fix your screw-ups.

In any case, no matter what you, be very careful when working on electricity! If needed cut down the entire power of your house just to be sure.

Properly Maintaining the Electrical Wiring in Your Home

Each year, thousands of homes in the United States are engulfed in fires triggered by faulty h05rn-f cable. In Home Electrical Fires, a report by the National Fire Protection Association’s Fire Analysis and Research Division published in May 2010, an average of 22,000 home fires between 2003 and 2007 involved electrical distribution (e.g., wiring and related equipment, transformers, power supplies) or lighting equipment (e.g., lamps, light fixtures, light bulbs, cords, plugs). The fires caused over $700 million in direct damages, 350 deaths, and 880 injuries. According to the report, 72% of the fires were caused by some type of electrical failure or malfunction. Most home fires are preventable; homeowners just have to take the time to keep their home’s electrical wiring properly maintained.

Often, electricity-related home fires happen not because homeowners are purposely careless about the maintenance of their home. Many of them are in fact quite responsible in the best way they know how; they just don’t have adequate information when it comes to home electrical wiring safety. When it comes to basement flexible cable types, for instance, not many homeowners realize that keeping their basements clean and free of pests is just as important as making sure the wires are all properly connected at all times.

Even though the wire connections are perfectly installed, the rats, insects, and other pests you may unknowingly be housing in your basement can easily wreak havoc on your electrical wiring, considerably increasing the risk of electricity-related fires in your home. And if you live in an older home, it is important that you check the fuse boxes and the circuit breakers on a regular basis. Even better, consider having the earlier models of these components replaced with modern ones that are better equipped to handle the higher voltages used in today’s appliances.

Ideally, your home’s electrical wiring should be checked every three years to make sure they are in good condition and that they are still perfectly capable of providing the electricity needed for the growing number of appliances you have in your home. This sounds simple enough but the shocking truth is that the average American homeowner has not had his flexible control cable checked for at least 20 years (source: National Fire Protection Association). This is one reason there are so many cases of electricity-related home fires in the United States.

One other reason the incidence of house fires caused by faulty wiring is so high is that many homeowners choose to install and repair their own electrical wiring instead of hiring a professional to do the job. While this decision helps them save money initially, it puts their home and their families in much greater risk of accidents later on. It is best to leave the job of electrical wiring installation and repairs to the professionals as much as possible.

Here’s the good news: Most electricity-related fires can be easily avoided by following a few simple preventive measures. For instance, you should always be watchful of electric hazards around your home. When a fuse box melts or when a plug produces sparks when you try to plug it in to the wall socket, call an electrician right away. Unless you are a qualified electrician yourself, you should never try to tinker with your home’s 2 gauge battery cable by the foot; your noble efforts might cause even more damage than good. Hiring a professional to do the job will cost you a few extra bucks, but this expense is worth the added protection you can give to your home and your family in the long run.

Cable Management Tips For Computers

Computers are getting more advanced, especially wireless technology and connectivity, but it will probably be some time until a complete wireless office is a reality. Until then, computer work areas are going to need cable management for optimum safety and visual acceptance.

Cable management includes clamping, labeling and routing. There are various products to bundle h07rn f cables together:

o Spiral Wrapping – This can be wrapped around cables without disconnecting them. It is flexible so routing of the bundle is easy.

o FLEXO WRAP – A hook and loop expandable sleeve designed for quick and easy bundling and protection of wire, cable

o Cable Ties – These are nylon ties available in various lengths and colors. They can just bundle a group of cables or secure to another item.

o Velcro? Ties – These are similar to twin and earth cable ties, but using Velcro?. Some have a mounting hole to secure to a something solid.

o Cable Management Box – Made from plastic and holds up to seven cables. About 15″ in length and 4″ wide with self-adhesive sticker for mounting.

o Clips & Clamps – There are various individual clips and clamps to mount cables to a stationary object.

To start cable management, group cables generally going to the same destination. Don’t bundle power cables with data 2/0 welding cable if the run is more than a few feet. The electrical field from a power cable can sometime interfere with data signals (USB, network, printers, etc)

Next, secure the cables together with tie or wrap. Pay attention to routing since bundling a group of cables together sometime requires a cable to be longer than it actually is.

If there is a surge protector, position it for easy routing of welding cable price list. Power adapter units sometime take two spaces when plugging into a power strip. Use a universal power cord adapter to alleviate the problem. This is a one foot power cord extension that allows the power adapter to be located about a foot from the power strip allowing use of all the receptacles.

After implementing cable management, all the cables will be more secure and look a lot better!

How to Install Solar Panels: Wiring in Parallel VS Wiring in Series

Planning to build an array of solar panels? Before you start soldering solar cells you need to determine how many panels you will need in order to meet your energy output goals. Of course, in order to do that, you’ll need to have an understanding of how to house electrical wiring your panels together. This article will explain the difference between parallel solar panel installations and series solar panel installations, and it will give advice as to which you should use.

Wiring Solar Panels in Parallel

Imagine that you are looking at three solar panels lying next to each other on the ground. On the top of each panel is a positive terminal. On the bottom of each panel is a negative terminal. You are going to wire these panels together using the terminals. You have two options. Option one is to run wires along the top, connecting each positive terminal together and to run wires along the bottom, connecting each negative terminal together. This is a parallel solar installation. What happens when you electrical wire size your panels in this fashion?

When you wire your solar panels in parallel, the total voltage output remains the same as it is in a single panel. The amperage output becomes the sum of the output of each panel. For example, say each of your panels produces 12 volts and 3.5 amps. The total output of your panels, when wired in parallel, would be 12 volts and 10.5 amps. What would your total output be if you had six panels instead of three? Your voltage output would remain the same, 12 volts, but your amperage would increase to 21.

Wiring Solar Panels in Series

Now look back at those three unwired solar panels lying next to each other on the ground. This time we are going to wire them in series. Instead of wiring the positive terminal of one panel to the positive terminal of the panel next to it, we are going to power cable manufacturers the positive terminal of one panel to the negative terminal of the panel next to it. Do this for each panel, and your array will be wired in series. What is the result of this?

When you wire your solar panels in series, the amperage remains the same, and the total voltage output becomes the sum of the voltage output of each panel. Using the same three 12 volt, 3.5 amp panels as above, we can see the difference. Wired in series, they now produce 36 volts at 3.5 amps. What if we hook up our three other panels? Correct. Our amperage remains at 3.5 and our voltage output jumps to 72.

When to Use Each Respective Wiring Style

Which wiring style should you use? Well, that depends on the system that you want to charge. Let’s say, for example, that you want to use solar power to charge up your RV while camping. An RV, as you know, uses a 12-volt system; therefore, you would want your solar panel system outputting 12 volts. So, if you have two solar panels and each produces 12 volts at 3.5 amps, you would want to wire them in parallel, which would keep the volts at 12 and increase the amperage to 7.0. If, on the other hand, you have two solar panels and each produces 6 volts at 3.5 amps, you would want to armored cable them in series, which would increase the volts to 12 while keeping the amps at 3.5.

You may be wondering what the effects are, in regards to total power output, of wiring panels up one way or the other. The answer is that there are no effects at all. Total power is measured in watts. To figure out the total wattage of your charging system, simply multiply your amps times your volts. For example, say you have one system producing 12 volts at 10 amps and another producing 120 volts at 1 amp. Which produces more power? Neither.

12 volts X 10 amps = 120 watts

120 volts X 1 amp = 120 watts

For simple reference in regards to the difference between parallel and series wiring, just remember that parallel wiring = more amps, and series wiring = more volts. With a sound understanding of the differences between parallel and series solar installations, you are now ready to design and build your own solar panel system.

Installing a Solar Panel Aboard Your Boat

Following a recent five-day trip aboard our trawler where we had to frequently start up the genset to provide electricity to the 115 volt AC freezer to maintain temperatures, I began to mull over options. We put in an excess of ninety hours on the vessel generator in only five days; time for another oil change! I put in an inverter soon thereafter and that improved the run time for the generator drastically, but there was still work to be completed. I nonetheless needed to keep the 1 gauge battery cable fully charged to operate the inverter. Then it occurred to me, why not explore solar panels for use aboard our yacht. Solar panels have been successfully utilized since the mid 1950s, originally utilized in manned space exploration. They have been dropping in cost since roughly 2004 when their popularity really went up. And now with the Green pressure going on, solar panels are as accepted as ever. So I commenced to delve into them and find out how to purchase and mount one; I was in for a big surprise. You can come across many retail vendors over the internet that will sell you a solar panel but nowhere could I locate a detailed description of how to determine what to buy and how to install it; much less on board a yacht. So this piece was written as I made my way through the progression; therefore is a truly a learn-as-you-go article.

What Exactly is a Solar Panel and How Do They Work?

Solar panels are basically any panel that makes use of the sun’s thermal energy to create electricity. A solar panel can be described as a photovoltaic panel, the name used in the business, for panels intended to create electrical energy from the emission of the sun. Despite the group of solar panel being discussed, nearly all solar panels are flat. This is because the surface of the solar panel cable 4mm needs to be at a 90 degree incline from the sun’s rays for the best angle to soak up the sun’s rays. Solar panels are able to absorb energy from the sun through a collection of solar cells on their surface. Very similar to how a plant is able to take in energy from the sun for photosynthesis, solar cells function in a comparable way. As the sun’s rays hit the solar cells on a photovoltaic panel, the energy is transferred to a silicon semiconductor. The power is then changed into (dc) direct current electrical energy and then passed through connecting wires to ultimately enter a storage battery.

Kinds of Solar Panels

Types of panels most normally used in yachting uses have either multicrystalline or amorphous thin-film cells. Multicrystalline panels are the oldest technology obtainable and in addition the strongest. When sized correctly and paired with suitable batteries, these are the panels to make use of for operating large loads such as refrigeration.

Amorphous thin film solar panels are only about 50% as effective as multicrystalline aerial bundled cables, but can be bought in flexible varieties so they can roll or fold, or change to the shape of a boat cabin top or bimini. They don’t often have adequate yield for considerable energy replenishment, but can be used to lightly charge a battery bank.

How Much Power Can Solar Cells Make?

Normally, we measure solar panels by wattage and that is how we buy them. You can get solar panels for boats as small as 10 watts to as great as 200 watts or even larger. But it is simpler to understand when we change watts to amperage. We calculate these values by multiplying the number of hours the panel is in full sun (usually defined as 5 a day in Florida) by the panel’s wattage. For a 195 watt solar panel the amount produced would be 195 x 5 hrs = 975 watts/day. We can then figure, 975 watts/12 volts = 81.25 amps per day.

Power Consumption

Before considering which acsr wire size to purchase for your boat, you will need to complete an energy budget to ascertain what sources of power consumption you have aboard while at anchor. I use the at anchor scenario as this is the place you will use the most energy; under power and your trawler can supply its needs without any issues.

Example, if you have 3 inside lights that pull 2 amps each and you keep them on for 4 hours per night, your consumption would be 3 x 2 x 4 = 24 AH/Day. We are not concerned by running lights and electronics as they will not likely be running while at anchor.

Mustang Clutch Cables and Quadrants – Everything You Need to Know

After researching this topic in detail in order to solve a problem I had with my mustangs I figured I would share all the information I had gathered so others may learn from my experience.

In between adding an intake, nitrous, and exhaust components, it seems that nary a thought is given to replacing the factory clutch-cable arrangement. That is, until the 4 gauge battery wire breaks or wears out. Then it seems like a good idea to replace it with one of the performance variety. However, there are many options out there and between opinions on the internet, in addition to all the magazine articles/adds, it can be confusing as to which direction you should go. I will attempt to explain the pro’s and con’s, as well as the differences between many of these choices.

Let’s begin with the stock setup itself. The plastic stock clutch quadrant that the factory gave your car is garbage. This plastic part is known to flex under the pressure of a heavier than stock clutch and has plastic teeth that wear down allowing your clutch to self adjust itself into positions that causes the clutch to wear improperly and makes shifting difficult. While an after market quadrant really can’t fix an ailing clutch, proper adjustment of the cable is essential to longer clutch life.

Then there is the cable itself. The h07rn f cable is non adjustable and has a rubber spacer that mates up with the firewall and holds the cable in alignment with the quadrant. It’s construction is also quite vital, but we’ll cover that in a few minutes.

So now you know what you’ve got, but where to go from here? With such a plethora of choices, how do you know what you need? Many companies offer packages that include everything you need to complete the conversion; quadrant, cable and firewall adjuster. However, something that you need to know is that these packages are NOT all the same.

The first choice you have to make is if you want an adjustable cable, or non adjustable OEM cable. This decision will affect the quadrants that are compatible with your setup. I’ve spent time talking with several mustang owners who are very knowledgeable on this subject and the consensus is that an adjustable cable will make for a “harder” clutch due to the increase in drag due to the inferior construction of the cables. The cable on top is your run of the mill adjustable twin and earth cable, while the one on the bottom is an OEM cable.

About five years ago, I installed the BBK package. It included an adjustable cable, quadrant, and fire wall adjuster. Immediately after installation, I noticed that it was much more difficult to engage the clutch than before, a problem that only became worse. Recently I switched back to an OEM cable and immediately the pedal pressure required to engage the clutch dropped. It is because of this incredible difference in pedal pressure that I will never use an adjustable cable again. It should also be noted that it is not just the BBK cable that will cause this as all adjustable cables are made the same, and many people using a variety of adjustable cables have complained of the increase stiffness in their clutch pedal after installing an adjustable cable.

Earlier I mentioned that you must decide between an adjustable or non adjustable cable due to the quadrant requirements. This is because some quadrants can only be used with adjustable cables, some only non adjustable cables, and finally there are a few that can be used with both. Some replacement cables, like the universal cable that maximum motorsports sells has an overall longer length than your stock fox cable but it’s working length is the same. However, all adjustable cables, even if they have the same overall length as your stock cable, have a longer working length than a non adjustable OEM cable. This is where cable specific quadrants come into play. Most adjustable cable quadrants are 3/8 circle in shape. My old BBK quadrant was like this. If using a non adjustable cable you’ll need one that is 1/4 circle in shape or has multiple hooks. This next photo demonstrates this. On the left is a BBK quadrant made to be used with an adjustable cable. On the right is a multi hook UPR quadrant. The farthest throw hook on the UPR piece is made for an adjustable cable while the middle hook is used for a standard cable. The shortest throw hook is used to get around the patent that Steeda has on two hook quadrants.